Guide to Edinburgh

"It is one of the most hauntingly beautiful places in the world, the history is fascinating, the men are handsome, and the whisky is delicious"- J.K. Rowling

A few weeks ago, one of my co-workers asked me if I had any recommendations since she was visiting Edinburgh for the first time in June. If you haven't noticed, I am a biggggg fan of Scotland. I've only been three times, but one of those visits lasted 3.5 months. I'm by no means an expert, but here are my favorite spots and sights that I've come across so far. 

Kate’s Official Guide to Edinburgh:

Nightlife:

Cowgate: This is more of the student-y area of town. The university is nearby and drinks are cheap. Things are a little grungier, but it’s a lot of fun. I lived on the cowgate, and there is always something to do. The Hive was my favorite spot.

Grassmarket: It is kind of part of the Cowgate, but the atmosphere is different. This used to be a medieval market (and it’s where they used to hang people-Edinburgh is known for having a really dark history) but it’s a really cool area of town. It’s a great place for the more typical British pub culture and there are some cool shops scattered around. Also in the summer, there is a lot of outdoor seating for eating and drinking. If you’re not looking to get too crazy, this is probably the spot for you.

George’s Street: This is just off Prince’s Street and is the more upscale area of town. Things are more expensive and fancier. Opal, Shanghai, and LuLu are the more classy-club places on George’s Street.

There are bars, clubs, and pubs pretty much everywhere, but the general rule of thumb is that drinks in the old town are cheaper. My personal favorite for a summer night is Three Sisters (the Cowgate) it has a ton of outdoor space. I also really like Brewdog (also the Cowgate, and I used to live above it). They brew all their own stuff and it’s pretty unique- really interesting IPAs.

Sites/Activities:

The Castle: You’ll see the fortress the second you get into town and you can go in and tour the grounds. It’s fairly large and very interesting. It is on the pricier side of things to do, but it’s pretty cool. They also shoot off cannons throughout the day.

The Royal Mile: The mile connects Holyrood Palace (the residence of the British royal family in Edinburgh) to the Edinburgh castle. It has a fun atmosphere, lots of shops and some cool history. John Knox’s house is on the mile, there are a lot of street performers, and a cool cathedral.

The Elephant House: If you are into Harry Potter, you have to stop here. This is where JK Rowling wrote the first book. They have great tea and baked goods and the view of the castle and greyfriars kirk is pretty spectacular.

Greyfriars Kirkyard & Greyfriars Bobby: Old cemetery bordering on the walls of the old town. It is very atmospheric. Also, JK Rowling got a lot of the names for Harry Potter from the cemetery so that is kind of cool.  You will also notice the small statue of the terrier outside of the Kirk- that is Greyfriars Bobby. After his master died, the dog visited his grave for years. It is considered good luck to rub his nose.

The Meadows: A large park in town. On nice days people are everywhere (grilling, playing games, day drinking). It’s a nice spot to walk through if you get sick of the city.

Calton Hill: This is my favorite spot in the city. It has a bunch of random unfinished monuments and it is one of the reasons Edinburgh is called the ‘Athens of the North’. The view is amazing- you can see the castle, the palace, Arthur’s Seat, the Scott Monument, the pentlands, the ocean, and both the old and new towns. It’s a quick walk to the top and it’s great.

Arthur's Seat: A really good hike in the city. It gets its name from the possibility that Camelot was at one time based there. Views are astonishing and it’s a pretty physical climb.

The National Scottish Museum: It is free (always good) and it has a ton of cool stuff inside. The building itself is really unique. Also, the view from the roof is incredible. A lot of people don’t know you can go up there, but you can and it’s great. I also hear the portrait gallery on Princes Street is really good, but I haven’t been there.

Royal Botanical Gardens: If you like gardens, this is a good one. It’s a little bit of a walk, so it wouldn’t be the first thing on my list, but if you have time, check it out! I believe it is also free.

Scotch Whisky Experience: Super touristy, but it’s fun. I wouldn’t do it if you are familiar with whisky or going to any distilleries. There is a ride that takes you through the stages of scotch making and you end up in a massive collection of scotch and get to taste a few.

I have also heard the Mary King’s Close tour is very cool. I have not done it, but I want to. It’s at night and takes you into the buildings underneath the city. (Edinburgh is a city built on a city so there’s a lot going on). Supposed to be kind of scary, but historically accurate.  Also friends have talked about ‘Dynamic Earth’ and Outlook Tower, but I haven’t done them.

Honestly, Edinburgh is the best city. You will find something there that takes your breath away.

The city is gorgeous, the people are wonderful, and the food is great. I can't say enough good things about Scotland and its amazing capital. I have so many more trips to make to Scotland before I'll even begin to feel like I really know it.

Alba gu Bràth!

Everything is Bigger in Texas

"Texas is a state of mind. Texas is an obsession. Above all, Texas is a nation in every sense of the word"- John Steinbeck

A few weeks ago, I flew over to Austin to spend the weekend with one of my best friends. Sarah and I grew up together, and both went to college out of state.  We also both ended up getting jobs out of our home state of California. We don't get to see each other all that often, so when she mentioned she had a day off, I jumped at the chance to spend a weekend together. We decided to meet in Austin.

I forgot how great it was to be around someone who knows me almost as well as I know myself. Sarah picked me up from the airport with my favorite pastry, and she didn't even bother asking me if I wanted to get a cab- she knew we were hoofing it.

We spent the first day wandering the city, trying to get our bearings. Austin is an awesome city. The river, graffiti parks, music, food, and drinks are all top notch.

We were told repeatedly to take advantage of Happy Hour in Austin, so Sarah and I made sure to get our fill of specialty cocktails at as many places as we could get to. 

We were on a mission to see the bats fly out from Congress bridge, so we made quick work of our drinks and went to go find a spot to watch the bats at sunset. 

We got lucky and didn't have to wait too long before the steady stream of bats started flying out of the bridge. This is a surreal experience- I have never seen that many bats in my life (which probably makes sense).

We headed for a night out on Rainey Street. Rainey was very cool and if I lived in Austin that would most certainly be my spot. I will say it may not be the best spot for just two people. Sarah and I felt like we would have had a better time if we were in a large group. 

The next day we got an early start and went hiking on a few different trails surrounding the Austin area. We grabbed lunch at The Oasis on Lake Travis. The food is mediocre but the views are top-notch.

We ended up at a brewery, and we spent the afternoon chatting and relaxing in the beautiful weather. We had been told that we wouldn't like the 'Dirty 6', but Sarah and I agreed we'd check it out on our final night. We had the best time. 6th Street is a total mess, but in the best possible way. The energy is infectious, and everyone was having so much fun.

We literally witnessed a giant lumber-sexual looking dude preform a legit 'magic mike' strip routine when a bridal party gave him $20 to show their friend a good time. Sarah and I couldn't stop laughing. It was amazing. I couldn't hang out on 6th Street every night, but every once in awhile, that is a great spot. 

As always, getting to see my best friends in amazing places is always a blessing, and Austin was no different. I would totally go back, and I can't wait to plan another weekend trip with Sarah!

xxx

The Emerald Isle

"Ireland is where strange tales begin and happy endings are possible"- Charles Haughey

I'm going to preface this post with a disclaimer: TONS OF PHOTOS AHEAD. 

I decided to go on my first solo adventure and went to Ireland for a 5 day road trip through the west coast. It was amazing. I had the best time ever and would travel alone in a heartbeat. I think everyone should give it a go. I wrote a buzzfeed post about the things I learned on the trip, if you are interested, you can read it here.

Day One: Clifden, Connemara

Connemara is in the gaeltacht region of Ireland (meaning Irish is still spoken and well-known). This was the Ireland I had read about- wild horses, rainbows, abandoned castles, and the friendliest people on earth. I made a lot of friends (young and old) and learned a lot about the area during my brief stay. I would go back in a heartbeat.

Wild horses running in the hills of Ireland- I thought I was going to be trampled, but this guy was rather friendly and just wanted to hang out.

I have always wanted to touch a standing stone (probably because I am an Outlander fan and was hoping Jamie would appear). When I saw this one I hopped a fence and laid my hands on it. Sadly, I was not transported to another time, but it was still very cool.

Seriously, the Wild Atlantic Way is amazing. Rainbows and castles every which way. I was half expecting a friendly leprechaun to jump out at me.

Day Two: Connemara National Park & Galway

My next day started with a hike in the Connemara National Park. Oscar Wilde called this area the most beautiful part of the world. I must say- I kind of agree. I was totally alone on the trails and the colors and scenic vistas were staggering.

I spent three hours exploring the national park before getting back on the road and stopping at a few castles between Connemara and Galway.

I also bonded with a heard of cows… so that's something.

 I spent the afternoon and the evening in Galway. I went to a pub known for Trad music and had a few Guinness's with some locals. It was a perfect evening in Galway.

Day Three & Four: Castle Dromoland

I drove from Galway to the Cliffs of Moher. This is one tourist attraction that is totally worth the money and the crowds. They are staggering and it is insane to me how close to the edge you can get. There are no fences and what seems like endless stretches of cliffs.

I spent two nights in the incomparable Castle Dromoland. I also got a complimentary room upgrade which was just the icing on an already amazing cake. While staying there, I road horses, wandered the grounds, and indulged at the spa. It was a quick, but needed relaxing break during my vacation.

I also spent some time in the burren. This is the weirdest place ever, and very unique. I can't think of a way to describe it without using the world 'alien'.

Day Five: Kilkenny

I didn't take any pictures in Kilkenny except for one of my seafood chowder. I quite liked Kilkenny, but the weather was less than ideal while I was here and my jet lag started catching up with me so I didn't spend a ton of time touring the area.

Day Six, Seven,  Eight: Dublin

I drove back to Dublin and dropped off my rental car on St. Paddy's day. One of my good friends decided to fly out for the holiday, so I swung by the airport and met up with Emily. We headed into the city and got ready to go green for St. Patrick's Day in Temple Bar.

We spent three days roaming Dublin and having a very good time. It was the perfect way to end an amazing trip across the pond. I loved this holiday and I really want to come back to Ireland and spend some time in the Ring of Kerry, Dingle, and getting up to the North. It's a gorgeous country and I couldn't have asked for a better trip.

xxx

Hogmanay

“Should auld acquaintance be forgot, and never brought to mind? Should auld acquaintance be forgot, and auld lang syne?”- Rabbie Burns

FYI: Hogmanay is the Scot's word for New Years Eve, and it is a massive celebration in Scotland

About a month before New Years, our exec staff informed us that we had two days off of work, not the one we were all expecting.  When I found out that I had NYE and NYD off, I decided to see if I could go on a quick trip somewhere to ring in the new year. One of the things on my '27 by 27' list was to celebrate the new year at Hogmanay ain Edinburgh. I shot off an email to some friends of mine in the city asking if they would be around. An hour later I bought a flight.  This was the most impulsive (and last minute) trip I have ever planned.

I landed in Scotland at 5 am on the morning of New Year’s Eve. I hopped on the airlink bus and headed into city centre. I was a little surprised to be dropped off a few stops away from the city centre stop, but Prince’s street was closed in preparation for the festivities.  I had an address for my friends’ flat and a general idea of where they lived, but I wasn’t exactly sure where I was.  Being that I am an idiot who loves an adventure, I passed on getting a cab and I picked up my 30 pound bag and started walking. I ended up on North Bridge as the sun started to rise and was treated to an amazing view of the city. I started to remember where I was and identified some landmarks of where I needed to be, and 30 minutes after getting off the bus, I found myself at my friend’s flat.
I was immediately greeted with tea (love that Scottish hospitality) and caught up with my friends. After an hour or so, I realized that I wasn’t going to be able to make it through the day, and certainly not the night, without a nap. I climbed into bed and slept for an hour. Throughout the day, more people came through (both old friends and people I had never met before). We had quite the group by dinnertime and headed out for a pre-festivity dinner.

We had a very filling meal and headed back to the flat to start drinking and getting ourselves fancied up. I had bought an amazing glittery dress from Asos for the occasion that I was super excited to wear. It was not at all weather appropriate, but if you can’t go all out on NYE, when can you?
We headed off to a few flat parties, and actually made it on the NYE snap story since one of the people we were with whipped out an accordion and we all sang auld lang syne.  As the night wore on, we drank and danced and sang, and as midnight came closer, we gathered up bottles of champagne for the bells. We decided to watch the fireworks from the bridge (great choice). We were treated to three different firework displays from all directions. It was totally magical. Everyone around us was singing auld lang syne and we were toasting to friendship. Not gonna lie to you- multiple people were overcome with emotions and started crying… We have pictures to prove it. I hugged about 30 people I’ve never seen before and everyone was sharing champagne (probably not the best idea thinking back).

My fool-proof tip for finding a NYE kiss (if you are single) is stolen from a friend of mine. I watched him kiss multiple girls a few years ago on New Years (he's kinda sneezy) and asked him how he was doing it. He told me he would sidle up next to girls and say (rather loudly) ‘damn, I wish I had someone to kiss at midnight’, it worked every time- I witnessed it. He used it hours after midnight saying, ‘ah my year is going to be so terrible since I didn’t get a kiss at midnight’. It was impressive, albeit it kind of gross. If I’m being honest, I really wanted a New Years kiss (preferably with a Scot) on the bridge at the bells. I spotted a really attractive, tall Scottish guysand pulled the NYE Kiss trick… sure enough he turned and looked at me, smiled, and grabbed me. It was totally random and absolutely perfect. We headed back to the flat after the bells, blasted some T-Swift and drank some more.

At this point, I was going on an hour of sleep over the course of the last 36 hours, and I was fading fast. I decided to be responsible, and at around 1:45 am I called it a night. My friends continued partying until 6 am, and I maintain that I made the right decision in going to sleep.

New Years Day was mostly spent collapsed around the flat trying to recover. At around 5 pm, we decided we had to absolutely get out of flat and do something. It was insanely windy and a little rainy, but we wanted to get outside. We walked up to the castle and spent an hour dancing in the streets and hanging of the fences around the castle. It was one of those moments where I felt so alive. But it was freezing, so we decided to head to a pub and grab a new years drink.  We walked to the Grassmarket and had some whisky and a few pints. We ended up back at the flat and made up a nice roast for dinner. It was a low key day, but it felt right.

The next day we played tourists in Edinburgh. We headed to my favorite spot in the City (Calton Hill) and went to the Christmas Market. Nell’s family joined us and I masqueraded as a 15 year old Scottish girl named Morag to get the family prices on the rides… I also may have had one glass of mulled wine too many. Riding on the spinny wheel in the sky with one of my favorite people (slightly tipsy) was a crazy experience. I was laughing like a loon and being slapped in the face with ice crystals. Totally great.

Emz and I grabbed dinner and had a totally girl catch-up shesh. I am always so excited to spend time in Scotland with these girls- they are honestly some of my favorite people. We spent my last full day in Glasgow with Naomi. I had been to Glasgow once before, but for a concert so I only saw a minimal amount of the city. I didn’t think I was going to like it, but I was happily surprised. Glasgow is great. Totally different vibe than Edinburgh, but still really beautiful. I’d like to go back and spend some more time there- especially since people claim Glasgow represents ‘the real’ Scotland better than Edinburgh.

One of my other flatmates, Erin, joined us for dinner on my last night in Edinburgh and she agreed to drive me to the airport early the next morning. (Bless her). My flight was delayed a few hours so Erin and I ventured out to see the Kelpies as the sun rose. It was the perfect way to close out an amazing visit to my favorite country.

xx